If your guitar bridge pivots on 6 wood screws (typically phillips head) then our 6 screw mount will be the a perfect fit (we only use 4 of the 6). If your bridge pivots on two "posts" then order our 2 point mounting system. We include wood screws for our 6 point and special adapters with our 2 point bridges.

The beauty is that you really can't go wrong selecting any of our tone blocks. The reason? All our blocks are machined from solid "billet" metal (no junky zinc castings here) for the ultimate in resonance, noticeable improvement in sustain and a precision fit against the bridge. We maximized the block size to fill the routed cavity. We offer a noticeable improvement in sustain on all guitars.

Sustainium: Boosts all frequencies equally while suppressing the unwanted "ice pick" high frequencies. Machined from a solid block of our proprietary aluminum alloy. Excellent note-to-note separation. Lightweight and very musical sounding option- our most popular pick.

Brass: Arguably our best block for long, extended sustain. Seems to ring forever. Machined from a solid chunk of 360 alloy brass, this block delivers a warm, jazzier tone with sustain that never seems to end.

Carbon Steel: Offers a noticeable low-end boost and generates a faster attack. Machined from a bar of 1020 carbon steel, polished and then nickel plated. Bad to the bone for that soul crushing sound.

Dreaded tuning issues? Here's few tips to help you track down the problem. Both the Maverick and BladeRunner have a near frictionless pivots so nothing to fix there.

We suggest taking a close look at your head stock set-up. First a bit of physics . . . The length of string between the nut and the tuning post is at a slightly higher tension as you tune up your guitar, due primarily to friction or drag in the nut slot.  When you use the bar, the excess tension is suddenly released and the string goes slightly sharp.   Once you understand what is happening, you're in a better position to solve the problem.  The idea behind the roller nut was a poor attempt to reduce friction but unfortunately they just make your guitar go out of tune more smoothly!

Here's a few quick things to try -

1. "Shallow" the angle of the strings as they break over the nut as much as possible.  They should all be at approximately the same angle. The ideal angle provides just enough downward pressure on the nut not to cause string "buzz" while keeping the friction to a minimum.
2. Use a string tree if you don't have one.  This helps you get the "break over" angle the same on all 6 strings. 
3. Wind the strings onto the tuning pegs to achieve the shallow break over angle.  Some strings might be wound from the top down and some from the bottom up.  
4. Try our SuperGlide nut lube when you do a string change.  Just apply a small amount using a toothpick into each nut slot.  This stuff never gets gummy and is slippery as goose poop on a pump handle.
5. Adjust the neck angle relative to the body.  This is the best way to lower the action across all the frets and give yourself the best chance and a good headstock set-up.

If the nut needs to be filed then you might need to take your guitar to a tech. 

Hope this helps.

The BladeRunner bridge uses the standard vintage rout found on all fits all USA and MIM Fender guitars produced since the late 1950's. We also fit the following non-Fender brands:

• Yamaha Pacifica
• Suhr
• PRS
• Tokai
• Anything that uses a vintage routing pattern!

Call us and we will let you know if we have built one.

You bet. Just pick up one our adapter kits. Most guitars are USA/MIM but the next common is Asian. Remove the posts and thread in the solid brass adapters and set the bridge on top - that it!

The F Style arm is bent like a vintage Fender arm. It extends directly up out of the block then is bent parallel to the body and the last 2” bends up away from the guitar. Many players prefer this bend since this style has been around for many years. The down side is that in some cases it can interfere with the tone and control knobs.

Our standard arm with the "SuperVee" bend extends directly up from the tone block then angles slightly up away from the body (and the control knobs) then bends
parallel to the body. Very popular with most players but all personal preference.

If you have guitar that measures 1 1/2" thick you probably need one of our shorty blocks. Typical bodies run about 1 5/8" to 1 7/8" thick so our standard block will fit perfectly and allow you replace the back cover.

• Saddle Height: 0.050"
• Intonation: 3/32"
• Bar Tensioner: 5/32"
• Locking Nut: 7/64"
• String Lock: 7/64"